Scroll down to see all pictures We visited El Salvador in February 2009. It is the smallest and most densely populated of the Central American countries. We travelled via Tica Bus from Guatemala City, a 5 to 6 hour trip. I think we crossed the border at Paso El Jobo, between Valle Nuevo and Las Chinamas on CA-8, but I’m not positive because there were no signs indicating where we were. Unlike other border crossings, in El Salvador we did not get off the bus. Rather, Immigration and Customs officials came aboard to check everyone’s ID and baggage. The officials asked those whose bags were locked or secured to open them. The procedure was the same entering and exiting El Salvador, and we paid no fees and received no stamp in our passports. After entering, however, we had travelled only about half an hour when the bus was stopped by National Police, and we went through another inspection. This time they even brought a dog on board. But there were no problems and we went on to arrive in San Salvador at about 7 pm.
I had reserved a hotel room only three blocks from the bus terminal in the Zona Rosa, thinking we would walk the short distance. But it was later than we had expected, and dark, and we were tired, so we got a taxi. The driver wanted $5 (they use US currency in El Salvador) to take us 3 blocks! Al told him no way and the driver came down to $4. Al then told him we’d pay no more than $3- a dollar for each block! Reluctantly, the driver agreed and off we went to Hotel Villa Florencia Zona Rosa. The Hotel was clean and nice, but the room was very small. The Zona Rosa is not the “red light district”, as the name might suggest, but rather the upscale, business and shopping area, with prices to match. The hotel was $58, more than our usual $30 - $40 budget. In general, we found prices higher than we expected in El Salvador. Being a poor country, we expected the cost of living to be low, but that was certainly not the case in either San Salvador or Suchitoto. For example, we had lunch at Wendy’s one day, just two burgers and milkshakes, and paid $12!!!
We spent the night in San Salvador and headed for Suchitoto the next morning. The desk clerk helped arrange a taxi to take us the hour long trip north of San Salvador. There are buses that run regularly, but we decided on the comfort of a taxi when the desk clerk told us the cost would be $25. This is much more than the bus, no doubt, but for door to door service with luggage it was worth it. The driver, Alfredo, was not happy with the price his dispatcher had quoted, and was irritated with the desk clerk, but assured us it was not our problem and that he would honor the agreed price of $25. He told us later in the trip the usual fare is $40, and in the end we paid him $30. When we left Suchitoto we went in a van arranged by the hotel manager, and paid $40. Sometimes we are willing to pay for more comfort or convenience, and sometimes we choose to economize.
We actually splurged on the hotel in Suchitoto as well! None of the hotels that we checked were in our budget range, so we picked Hotel El Tejado because it has a gorgeous swimming pool. The hotel is about four blocks from the central park, and overlooks part of Lake Suchitlán, a reservoir formed by the construction of a hydroelectric dam. The setting is lovely. The hotel is laid out hacienda style, with one story buildings, tile roofs, and a large courtyard. The plants, trees and flowers are lovingly watered and tended by the gardener. There is a large open air restaurant on the edge of the hillside, and cooling breezes come up from the lake. We enjoyed the pool each afternoon in the heat of the day- and it was hot! It was also very dry, which is normal for this time of year, and the foliage was turning brown. Our room was large with two double beds, a good hot water shower, wireless internet and cable TV. We actually watched the Oscars in English! The service provided by the staff at El Tejado is the real stand-out. Each time I left the room and crossed the courtyard to the restaurant, someone met me on the way to inquire what I needed, and it was delivered promptly. I felt quite spoiled and pampered for $65 per night!
We chose to go to Suchitoto because friends had visited a couple years ago and told us they loved it. Our Lonely Planet guide book calls Suchitoto the “honey pot” of El Salvador, and describes it as a culture and arts center. Being there is like stepping back in time- it is a colonial city that still feels very much like it must have 300 years ago. No high rises, franchise restaurants, huge trucks, blaring rap music … in fact few reminders of the 21st century. There is only one ATM in town, on the central park, and it is a very recent addition. The streets are all rugged cobblestone in the small town, so while there are cars and pickups, they don’t go very fast! From the park the town follows a hill as it slopes down to the lake, and there is a small bus that makes a circuit from the lake, through town to the residential area (the colonia) and back for 30 cents. Most businesses close for a long lunch, not referred to as “siesta”, but “descansa”, so there’s nothing going on in the afternoon. Smart folks- it’s too hot to do anything but visit the pool!
The pride and joy of Suchitoto is the Teatro de las Ruinas. Originally a residence, the building served a variety of purposes before it was destroyed by earthquakes, civil war, neglect and looting. With very little of the structure remaining, and all of that overgrown with vegetation, the people of Suchitoto decided to restore it. With help from Mexico, Germany, Holland and many salvadoreños, the Patronato de Restauración Cultural de Suchitoto succeeded in turning a ruin into a theatre and art museum. Each year in February, it is home to an International Art and Culture Festival, hosting performers from around the world. It is an accomplishment worthy of their pride.
We spent four nights in Suchitoto at El Tejado. We didn’t really do much, because unfortunately Al got an intestinal bug. Every now and then one of us gets sick, and we never know when, how or what it is. We did relax and enjoy our stay, nevertheless. We visited Puerto San Juan, the water front center on Lake Suchitlán, and walked around the central park where some vendors were set up on the weekend. Our guide book describes an arts festival held every weekend, with music, food, artists, etc., etc. Well, it didn’t happen when we were there. El Salvador has little in the way of national handicrafts, especially compared to Guatemala and Mexico. The booths in the park were selling souvenir type things, jewelry made with seeds and beads, painted mementos of El Salvador, nothing inspired or inspiring. When we returned to San Salvador we went to an Artesan’s Market. It was quite large with a lot of vendors, but I think at least half of the items for sale were imported from Mexico or Guatemala.
The highlight of Suchitoto for me occurred on Sunday afternoon. The day before I was strolling around town while Al was napping, and went into the Tourism Center, two blocks from the park. There I met John and Amber, a young couple from Ohio doing a two year stint with the Peace Corps. We had an interesting visit, talking about Suchitoto and El Salvador, and they said a visit to La Casa del Escultor is not to be missed. I had read about this sculptor’s home in my guide book, and they told me it is the place to be on Saturday evening. The sculptor is Miguel Marino, an Argentinean transplant who, along with his wife Margarita, has made Suchitoto his home for many years. Al was feeling too puny to go anywhere, so I headed out to La Casa del Escultor on Saturday evening. Margarita greeted me at the door when I arrived and invited me in, but there was no one else there. She told me they served drinks and snacks later, after the performance at El Teatro de las Ruinas, but the real meal is served Sunday afternoon. I made a reservation for two for the next day. Al was feeling no better then, so I went to lunch by myself. La casa is an old colonial home which Miguel and Margarita are restoring, and also his workshop and studio. Work items are moved aside on weekends to make room for a few dining tables, surrounded by the sculptor’s tools and works of art. What a fascinating place--- I took a lot of photos! Paint, pencil, wood, and metal are not the only mediums used by this artist! He also uses a wood fired brick hearth to prepare a mixed Argentinean grill of meats and vegetables, served with great bread, real butter and a perfect red cabbage and tangerine slaw ($16 with two glasses of red wine). Miguel and Margarita are consummate hosts- open, warm, frequently asking if all is well and answering questions graciously. After eating, a Salvadoran couple moved from their table to mine and we chatted for about half an hour. It was a very nice experience.
On Monday we went back to San Salvador and stayed at La Posada del Angel, a small hotel with all the amenities and good service ($60 a night). It is in a residential area so we had to taxi everywhere we went, at $5 a trip! I got some medicine for Al at a nearby pharmacy, and it worked great! The next day we went to the David J. Guzmán Museo Nacional de Antropología and spent a long morning there. It is a wonderful museum with terrific displays and amazing Mayan artifacts. Some pottery pieces are so well preserved they look like they were made yesterday. It is a “must see”. From there we walked to the Artesan’s Market and purchased authentic Salvadoran crafts- sorpresas and picaras (a bargain at $2 or $3 each!). These are small clay figures, hand- made and painted, about the size of an egg. The base is round and flat and on it is depicted a scene from daily life, e.g. making tortillas, selling in the market, working in a field. This is covered with a dome that is also painted, and may take the form of an animal or person. The idea is you lift up the dome and… sorpresa (surprise)! This quaint art form has an alter ego known as the picara (the sting or annoyance). This time when you lift the dome, the scene is two nude figures in the act…choose a position! We read that the Catholic Church tried to ban the picaras, but they proved to be too popular!!
Our final night in San Salvador we stayed at Meson de Maria, a hotel adjacent to the Tica Bus terminal. Not only convenient for an early morning departure, the hotel is a great value. It was formerly known as a backpacker’s hostel, but they have upgraded. We had a large, clean room with two beds, good shower, wireless internet and well back from the street so it was quiet. If you are traveling on Tica Bus, they offer a discount for the night you arrive and the night before you leave and we paid $32. I don’t know the full price, but it’s not much more, and their location is great. We celebrated with dinner in a Japanese restaurant right across the street (no taxi!).
So we had a week in El Salvador and we are glad we went. There are many more things to do and see, of course, so maybe we’ll go back. We now know where to stay in the capital, and won’t experience sticker shock! Other then the anthropology museum and a couple of others, San Salvador has little to offer. Suchitoto is unlike any other place we have visited. Yes, it has the traditional layout, colonial architecture, and cobble stone streets, comparable to La Antigua or San Cristóbal. But it is much smaller, more intimate, tranquil and homey. The town has resurrected itself from the devastation of the civil war. It is a special place with special people.
|
